dangercraft wrote:On your cross-slide motor are you using any kind of reduction between the 100w stepper and the screw? What size motor and reduction are you using on your z screw?
The X (100W / 1.5Nm) is geared 1:1 with an 8mm x 2.5mm ballscrew. This is definitely a bit on the tiny side, but has so far given no trouble.
The Z (200W / 3 Nmw) is a 200W stepper geared down 3:1, and that is actually a little weaker than I would like as it can't really do toolpost drilling over about 10mm.
Which just goes to show that steppers are funny things and you need to look very carefully at the speed/torque curve.
As far as the cross-slide is concerned, I am going to take it apart this weekend to take some measurements and see what can be done. I've been playing around with the lathe and I'm thinking it really wouldn't be that difficult to make a new saddle for that little lathe with a wider cross-slide to make it more stable on boring operations.
While it is a lot of work, this is what I would do if I was converting the same lathe again (and if it didn't need to do double-duty as a mill). I would make a CNC-specific saddle and a cross-slide with built-in bosses for a toolchanger. Iron castings are not all that expensive, I paid £25 each for the motor mounts for theY and Z on my mill. This also means that you can remove all the manual parts unmolested, and possibly even recover costs. You can at the very least make parts without having to re-assemble the machine several times like I did.
For cutting 15m/min is useless, but I like having a good rapid with good acceleration. On a worse case scenario I can just dial down the feed rates and the servo lasts longer since its not wizzing around at 3k rpm. At the very least it sure looks pretty when you see the axis moving at ludicrus-speed.

It looks pretty until you crash into the tailstock because you can't get to the e-stop in time

. I am just thinking that more push for drilling might be useful, and for that you would want to be gearing down.
The used servo I am looking at is rated for 3000 rpms continuous with 4500 rpms max. So, if I felt brave enough, I could crank it up to 1500 spindle rpms for finishing
Any idea what the spindle bearings are rated at? Is it worth keeping a reduction gear for large-diameter occasional work, and having 3000rpm for hard-turning?
www.mmsonline.com/articles/taking-the-fear-out-of-hard-turning suggest that you would want 2500rpm for hard-turning 1/2" or 12mm material. I have used it with good effect even on my made-of-cheese Indian knock-off of a cheap Chinese lathe.
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